Today dawned extremely damply, much to our disappointment as we´d planned another day up at Cajas.  We had breakfast looking out over the river in the rain, spotted a hummingbird, and ummed and ahhed about what to do.

Luckily by the time we´d mucked around and bought bread for lunch the sun had come out in Cuenca.  The weather still looked a bit grim up towards the mountains, but we decided it was worth the risk.  It didn´t seem like the greatest idea in the organised chaos of the Cuenca bus terminal - all the buses heading to Guayquil that we wanted were full.  But luckily another friendly Ecuadorian pointed us in the right direction and off we went on the bus.

Ecuadorian buses have a strange feature - salesmen.  Not just with food and drinks at stops, but the full on infomercial style sales pitch.  We happened to have the same salesman as last Saturday - selling some kind of magical herbal remedy, for what we were unsure . . . (though it seemed aimed at men . . .)

Cajas rewarded our efforts with a stunning day.  It wasn´t quite blue skies, instead patches of sun and shade rolling across the paramo.  For Cajas this is particularly good weather.  Deciding that whilst some of the peaks looked very tempting for summiting we should play it safe, so chose a 5 hour loop, that had the option of an easy out onto the road if one didn´t fancy walking back uphill.

The trail started round Largo Torreador, where we walked last Saturday.  The pace was considerably faster, until we branched off into the Paper Forest.  It is a truly beautiful place, covered in mosses and the bark of the trees peeling slowly away.  The trees are very smooth and almost soft to touch, quite unlike how they look.  The photo below is a little deceptive, it was quite steep, rocky and slippery.

The trail left the forest, climbed past more lakes and then crossed a beautiful stream, complete with trout.  Back into the paramo proper, we thought it time for a photo proving that Ben is actually on this trip . . .

Stopped for a quick snack of cheesy rolls (delicious!) Ben was sidetracked by sunlight and flowers.  Cajas constantly reminds you that in amongst the vastness of sweeping veiws and towering crags is a delicate world of grasses, trees, flowers and birds.

Shortly before this we saw another humming bird flitting along a rock face - far too quick to be caught on camera.  Some things are just for looking at . . .

This is the view from the balcony of the Hostal del Barranco.  The Southern Cross was clearly visible, reminding us that we´re still just in the southern hemisphere.   

We've found the best bed in Cuenca - kingsized, firm, and best of all there are no roosters!   It´s a less of a hostel and more of a boutique hotel.  Also with fabulous high pressure hot water in the shower.  Funny what makes you happy when you´re travelling . . .