Hielo Azul Trek

After four days of on and off rain we were determined to get some more trekking done.  There was a popular three day loop that sounded good, so after picking up vital supplies off we set.

To be hit by a slight snag - the taxi driver dropped us at the wrong place.  It was deeply frustrating as we could hear the river and knew that the bridge was right there, but as it was private land with some big dogs we had to back track down the road, hoping we could figure it out.  After an 2hrs walking and getting 3 lots of conflicting information on where the trail started we finally found a sign - not what we needed with a decent distance to cover, not to mention the near 1000m climbing we needed to do.

It was 2pm by the time we crossed the river to the trail proper - very late to be setting off when the sign said it was 7hrs to the refugio!  But our trekking book said it was 4-6hrs, and it wouldn't be dark til after 9pm so we decided to press on.

A large ringed kingfisher waited patiently for Ben to change lenses - very obliging

The first rickety bridge crossing.
Ben couldn't work out why I was going so slowly, until he started himself - the boards were pretty rotten!

The first 2.5hrs from the bridge was some serious climbing; we decided that Argentine trail blazers don't really believe in switchbacks . . . Then it levelled out a little, but still with plenty of climbing.  At 6pm there was a sign that the refugio was still 50min away and after 7hrs on the go we decided that we would camp right there, in a nice clearing beside the river.

The next morning we were a little stiff and sore, but quickly reached the Refugio Hielo Azul (Blue Ice).  The weather had closed in a lot so we set up camp and lazed around, instead of heading up to see the glacier Hielo Azul.

Nearly at the refugio

Refugio Hielo Azul

We were very lucky to spot the rare Andean Mountain Cat, found in a diverse range of habitats . . .

. . . but especially warm ones!
This is Guia, the refugio cat, who was very helpful setting up the tent and going for short walks with us

Lovely campsite, luckily free from falling branches

The weather was considerably better, though still cold, when we set off the next morning, which was just as well as we had a decent amount of ground to cover, plus a big descent.  Much beginning of the walk was in the beautiful beech forests, occasional clearings and swampy meadows gave us some lovely views.

Another bridge crossing

Through the beech forest

The trail traversed across the ridge line, past Refugio Natacion, where we stopped in for a brief chat with the hut keeper, then dropped sharply down to the Rio Azul (Blue River).  The descent was steep and rocky, but we made good time.

The Rio Azul living up to it's name

We had only seen two other hikers on the first day until we got down into the Rio Azul valley, which is a very popular day hike.  Quite different from the popularity of the trails around Bariloche!

After following the river upstream for 30min, admiring the intense colour of the water and the dramatic, deepening gorge, we crossed the river to  Refugio Cajon de Azul - literally Drawer of Azul.  Canyon might be a closer translation, as the water is drawn into a canyon that is 40m deep and only 3m wide.  The Refugio is on a little working farm and we were welcomed by the very friendly owner and his multiple cats.  There were even hot showers to wash the dirt off - luxury!

Dinner time at Refugio Cajon de Azul

The fourth day was to be a relatively easy 12km walk out down the river and into a small settlement.  It was a very picturesque walk next to the river, with occasional day trippers and horse riders going by.

Another rickety bridge

Looking back up valley

The last bridge of the day

We crossed the last bridge and headed up towards Warton, the little settlement where the shop could call a taxi for us.  On the map and trip description this looked quite short, perhaps a km or two.  It was more like 3km of trudging up a surprisingly steep gravel road.  It wasn't all that far but it certainly felt it!  Finally we rolled in to Warton, really just a cross roads and a store with two horses tied up to the fence.  The owner called a taxi for us and while we waited we enjoyed a cold drink and a great view back the way we'd come.