Argentina: across the border and on to Iguazu Falls

Amazingly we managed to leave Bolivia without being stuck in a blockado or getting food poisoning - possibly a travelling record . . .

As if to make up for it Argentina was not kind to us to start with.  The border crossing took ages, it was a long walk to the bus station, then the bus journey turned out to be two stages, not one direct trip.  Ok, it wasn't so bad.  Until the bus stopped and everyone had to get off and have every bag searched.  Our camping gear was particularly interesting and we were the last ones back on the bus. Finally we made it to Salta - only 14hrs of travelling.

A night in Salta and we were off again on our first seriously long bus trip: 24hrs to Iguazu Falls.  It only took 3 buses and 26hrs . . . bus travel in Argentina was not as reliable as all the glowing reports we'd heard from other travellers.

But never mind, we'd made it to Puerto Iguazu, the little town next to Iguazu Falls.  We were welcomed by the most incredible lightening, thunder and rain storm and a great dinner at a little restaurant - actual vegetables were involved and they were playing Fat Freddy´s Drop!

The falls themselves are another amazing sight that is both indescribable and pretty darn hard to capture in photos.  The falls themselves are, of course, spectacular, but we also loved the animals, birds and butterflies as well.  I particularly loved the butterflies - they land everywhere - at one point I counted four on Ben's hat and another six on the rest of him.  It was very hot and humid - the sweat was literally dripping off us - luckily our hostel had a lovely pool.

The Devil's Throat

Over the edge

Butterfly Number 88

Cheeky bird - expert chip snatcher.
He flew down and snatched a chip right out of a woman's hand.

Lizard on the edge

Butterfly Number 88.8

Coati - very tame and eager to share lunches.
They have very sharp teeth and use their nose for sniffing out worms and  other delicacies.

A little reminiscent of Willy Wonkers Chocolate Waterfall

Another lizard perched over the falls

Note scale: tiny little people in top left

Almuerzo for spiders

The edge is so even it almost looks man made

Very big jet boat on the river

Contemplative monkey

Who knew signs aren't just for the tourists?

Sensible behaviour in the heat

Very large lizard

Tupiza

Ah, Tupiza.  It's a nice little town, just an hour north of the border with Argentina.  We used it as the base for going on the south west tour and then for some r&r before heading on to Argentina.  It's pretty tiny, and definitely lacked fine dining options, but it was nice and relaxing.

I did head out for a ride one day without Ben, he said he'd rather edit photos.

Very cool gap in the rock

Amazing country to ride through

Lots of different formations . . . 

. . . including big fins of rock.

The view from our bedroom window

Our room was the top left one - perfect!

The Salt Flats

At last we had made it to the famous Salar de Uyuni - this biggest salt flats in the world.  Up at 4:30am so we could see the sun rise.

Gorgeous pre-dawn colours

Longest shadows ever

After the sun rise photos it was time to head on to Isla Incahuasi, an outcropping of rock and cactuses in the middle of the salt flats.

Photos can't do justice to the vastness of the salt flats, though Ben did try.  We had breakfast where the island meets the flats; a special last breakfast that included a heart shaped cake (Bolivian food, you continue to baffle me).  Back in the jeep to pick a spot for the traditional silly salt flat photos.

Flying salt

The salt forms geometric patterns that stretch away forever

Little did we know about the dangers of the salt flats

Like the crazy tricks perspective can play . . .

. . . who knew we had a scale model of our jeep?

Finally the fun was over and we headed to Uyuni, stopping for a look in the original salt hotel (not very exciting) and then at the salt mines.

Outside the salt hotel, Mario and Anna.
Looked in vain for a NZ flag.

The salt mines.
The salt is piled up and allowed to dry, before being bagged and shipped off.

We were then forced to visit another market, selling more stuff we didn't want.  Ah, South America, why do all tours make you stop in markets?

Lunch in Uyuni was followed by an epic 5hr return drive to Tupiza on dusty, windy gravel roads.  Yet again we were very happy to have Mario as our driver; there were some tight, sharp corners with fearsome drops.  Ben did see his life flash before his eyes when we suddenly veered off the road, down what he thought was a sheer drop -  luckily there was a shortcut track down that he couldn't see.  Mario's driving was so smooth that I was able to read in the back all the way home - I never thought I'd be able to do that.  The sight of our hotel, complete with pool and hot showers, was very welcome.

The four day tour of South West Bolivia was spectacular.  We covered 1208km, all bar about 10km was off road or on unsealed roads.  There was a lot of time spent in the car, and my short legs were a big advantage.  The incredible sights we saw more than made up for some passing discomfort and the salt flats themselves defy description.

Road to the Salt Flats: Day 3

There was more ground  to cover today so we were loading gear into the jeep just before 7am.  Waiting around we were horrified to find out that one of the drivers was drunk - and when we saw him it was unmistakable.  We were doubly glad for Mario at that point - not only was he a good, safe driver, he was also sober!  Unfortunately this seems par for the course on some of these tours . . .

Anyway, off we went, into more surreal landscapes.

Arbol de Piedra - the Stone Tree

Ben remembering his hanging skills

Laguna Charcota, with the only non-pink flamingo we saw

Laguna Hedionda

The flamingos had a lovely way of running for takeoff and landing; both graceful and comical

We were slightly puzzled by this sign as the flamingos clearly weren't obeying it . . .

. . . but had no trouble deciphering this one.

A black headed gull making the best use of available resources; flamingo feathers

Laguna Cañapa

All too soon we had left the lagunas and the flamingos behind.  Ben had only taken hundreds of photos of them . . . Time to press on towards our next destinations; lunch in sculptured volcanic rock, a small salt flat and something called Galaxias.

Acid green lizard

This was supposed to look like he was hanging in space.
Clearly my camera skills need work.

Railway crossing of the small saltflat

By the time we reached the mysterious Galaxias I was hot, tired and sick of sitting in the back of the car.  All my meagre Spanish had deserted me, so it was an interesting surprise to find out that we were going to visit some caves.  I still don't know what the name relates to.

As though to make up for the long, hot drive the cave was one of the most interesting we have been in.  At over 3,500m above sea level and formed by coral and limestone (I think, even google isn't helping with an explanation of this place).  Ben and I agreed that it could possibly stand in for an alien nest in a sci-fi film.

The eerie and unusual cave

And right next door is an open cave full of burial tombs and these skulls.
The skulls are very small but I refused to get next to them to give a sense of scale.

Hills in blue

Back in the jeep and onwards to the salt hotel.  I had my doubts about where we were staying (promises, promises, Bolivia) but it turns out we were really staying in a hostel made of salt bricks.  It was quite nifty and two things endeared it to me;  hot showers and the insulating properties of salt kept it warm (well warmer than the nearly freezing temps of the previous place).  Ben said his photos of it weren't good enough so you'll have to imagine it . . .